The Waray Culinary Heritage of Samar and Leyte - A Cuisine of Resilience

Karasa - A Cuisine of Resilience: Exploring the Waray Culinary Heritage of Samar and Leyte

The culinary landscape of the Leyte and Samar islands in the Eastern Visayas region is a testament to resilience, history, and cultural diversity. Despite that this Waray region has endured tragic natural calamities, war, poverty, and socio-political challenges, its food culture remains vibrant and rich. The cuisine of Samar and Leyte offers a unique gastronomic experience reflecting the resilience and adaptability of the Waray-Waray people.

Karasa is a Waray-Waray term for a savory taste, from the root word rasa, which means taste. From gustatory interpretation, karasa can extend to mean one's pleasurable feelings either of corporal experience or incorporeal enjoyment - a desirable feeling or the state of being waray problema (having no problem).

The Waray Point of View

Who and what belongs to Samar and the eastern part of  Leyte is referred to as Waray or Waray-Waray. Those from Samar are called Samareños, while those from Leyte are the Leyteños. By nomenclature, the word Waray would literally mean "none" or "nothing." Depending on the perspective and use of the word, the social interpretation of Waray changes its spectrum. If viewed with skepticism, you see Waray people as destitute and belligerent; while if viewed with empathy, you will find how socially amiable they are. There is this negative impression of Warays that highlighted their impoverished way of living and their false pride of being belligerent as insinuated by the bilingual song Waray-Waray composed by Juan Silos Jr in 1953. 

This false pride was amplified when the song became so popular that in 1954, LVN Pictures was incited to produce a movie of the same title starring Nida Blanca and Nestor de Villa. Almost gone was the empathetic outlook of Warays on their way of life and social interaction. A befitting appreciation of the resilience and indomitability of Warays was mislaid when public opinion portrayed them as belligerent and pugnacious.

However, from Waray's point of view, they see themselves as faithful and convivial. They express their cordiality through food and drinks. This jolly impression of Warays manifested in the lyrics of the original Binisaya-Waráy version of the song Waray-Waray as reintroduced by UP Visayas professor Efmer E. Agustin in his essay to LIRIP Journal of Interdisciplinary Studies. The original song, most probably written in prewar times by an unrecalled composer, depicts not how destitute and hostile the Warays are. It rather portrays their happy celebration, of bountiful resources, and the cordiality of Waray-Warays. The food culture of Waray is anchored on karasa - something that makes them feel fine and worry no more.  For the Warays, there is no better way to set aside problems but to enjoy the karasa on food and drinks. Savory food and drinks mean happiness. It makes them forget their problems or have their moments of waray na problema (no more problem).

The old song mentioned the bounty of humay (rice) and the abundance of isda (fish). The historical account of rice and fish in Eastern Visayas reflects the region's deep connection to agriculture and the sea.

Coconuts amid Waray Resilience

The culinary heritage of Samar and Leyte is deeply rooted in history.  The song Waray-Waray carries a long historical narrative that we can trace back to the seafaring Austronesians who came to settle on our islands centuries ago. The seafarers are thought to have survived their long voyages with the sustenance of coconuts, chickens, fish, and several tropical fruits and crops. The coconuts can be highlighted as having been there for a long time, predating historical records. 

Before the arrival of the Spanish expedition to our islands in the 16th century, the indigenous peoples of these islands practiced subsistence in agriculture and fishing, relying on locally available ingredients consisting of root crops, tropical fruits, rice, and of course coconuts.

When Magellan's expedition reached Zamal (Samar) island in 1521, they found out that aside from fish and tropical fruits, there were coconuts that produced palm wine (tuba), oil (lana), and milk (hatok). It seemed people get everything from this palm tree. It was in Samar where Magellan's chronicler, Antonio Pigafetta, discovered and learned about cocoanut (coconut fruit) and the cocon trees. His curiosity and fascination even led Pigafetta to write a detailed description of the coconut. He wrote in his chronicle how the native islanders of Samar bestowed on them an act of kindness by giving them coconuts and other food - this seemed to be the first written record of food in the Philippines and the hospitality of Filipinos.

Samar and Leyte are the sister islands of Region 8 (Eastern Visayas) that faced numerous challenges throughout history, including war and devastating typhoons. When World War II broke out in the region in the early 1940s, the islands became the arena between the opposing forces of the Allies and the Axis. The largest naval battle of World War II mercilessly devastated the terrain and shorelines of Leyte and Samar. The Battle Off Samar and the larger Battle of Leyte Gulf brought enormous misery to the lives of local settlers. During the war and years that followed, eastern Visayas faced significant challenges related to food supply.  But like the coconut trees that were mangled and wiped out by the bombardment, the people were able to recover and grow back their lives and their economy - another testament to how resilient Warays are even to the worst history on their islands. Coconuts flourish back to be savored much again by the Warays in their daily cuisine.

A decade ago, the people of Eastern Visayas were tried again when Typhoon Yolanda (international name Haiyan)  left devastation in its wake, likely of the same route of wind that brought Magellan's expedition to Samar 5 centuries ago. Despite seemingly insurmountable odds, the Samareños and Leyteños displayed remarkable resilience, just like the coconut trees that were again mangled by the storm, they struggled to grow back and gain their full recovery. Their unwavering spirit and ability to endure adversity became a beacon of hope. Yolanda tested the strength of Warays, who emerged stronger, proving that even in the face of disaster, the human spirit can rise above destruction and rebuild.  

Local Specialties and Delicacies

The cuisine of Samar and Leyte boasts a diverse array of specialties and delicacies that showcase the region's culinary creativity.

Resilience in Eastern Visayas is reflected in their food culture. Despite the limited resources and scarcity of food supply during difficult times, communities have shown remarkable ingenuity in creating delightful dishes and delicacies from available local ingredients, such as hinatukan na kinilaw (fish ceviche in coconut milk), inagunon (fish cooked in vinegar), pud-pud (smoked fish cake), lomo (soupy blood stew with bean sprouts), lawot-lawot (viscous vegetable dish), binagol (sweetened taro in a coconut shell), moron (entwined chocolate and white suman), salukara (rice pancake), and a beverage called dubado (red coconut wine cocktail), which are distinctive of Eastern Visayan culinary signature.

Tuba and the Convivial Warays

Tuba in Leyte and Samar is dark red or maroon in color because it is flavored with plenty of barok (mangrove tanbark) that would help prevent the palm sap from getting sour or turning into vinegar. With tanbark, tuba would ferment into a red coconut wine that from a few days to weeks would become a wine called bahal. When aged for months to years, the wine is called bahalina with a taste that can challenge Western red wines.  This red coconut wine flows freely in the convivial gatherings of the Warays. Tuba is not just a drink; it is part of Leyte and Samar culture. Even before the Spanish colonization, tuba was already the centerpiece of any celebration. Every occasion calls for tuba - whether it is a fiesta, a family reunion, or a simple toast, tuba is present as it would lightens the mood, doubles the gaiety, and brings people together. Tuba is also taken to make one fearless, courageous, or forget their problems away. In Eastern Visayas, they have a special concoction of tuba they call dubado or adobado, often prepared to regain vigor or enhance virility.

Preserving Culinary Traditions

In recent years, there has been a growing interest in preserving and promoting the culinary traditions of Samar and Leyte. Local cooks and food enthusiasts are rediscovering age-old recipes and cooking techniques, and incorporating them into contemporary dining experiences. Farm-to-table initiatives and sustainable practices are also gaining traction, ensuring the continued availability of fresh, locally sourced ingredients.

Culinary tourism are showcasing the region's diverse food culture to a wider audience, inviting all to explore the flavors and stories behind each dish. Through food tours, cooking demos, festivals, and community-based dining experiences, everyone can immerse themselves in the culinary heritage of Samar and Leyte while supporting the local economy.

The cuisine of Samar and Leyte is a reflection of the region's resilience, history, and cultural diversity. From indigenous Asian flavors to Western influences and contemporary innovations, the culinary heritage of these provinces is a testament to the adaptability and creativity of its people. Through preserving culinary traditions, promoting sustainable practices, and embracing culinary tourism, Samar and Leyte continue to celebrate their rich food culture, inviting everyone to savor karasa as the flavor of resilience.